What is hydrolyzed silk?
We all know silk as a material — a delicate, shiny fabric produced from the cocoons of the silkworm (Bombyx mori). But silk is also an extraordinarily rich source of proteins, specifically fibroin and sericin. Fibroin is the main structural component of the silk thread, constituting about 70-80% of the mass of raw silk.
In cosmetics we don't use silk in raw form — we use its hydrolysate. Hydrolysis is a chemical process in which long protein chains are broken down into shorter fragments — peptides. As a result, from a large fibroin molecule, hundreds of small peptides are formed, each of which retains the amino acid composition of the original protein but is small enough to penetrate hair structures.
The hydrolyzed silk used at Trichovita has an average molecular weight below 10 kDa. This is a key parameter. The smaller the peptides, the deeper they penetrate, but the less they "fill" the structure. Balancing this relationship requires quality raw material, and high-quality silk is expensive.
How does hydrolyzed silk work on hair?
Hair, simplifying its structure, consists of three layers: the cuticle (outer scales), the cortex (structural core with keratin fibers), and the medulla (not very important in a cosmetic context). Mechanical and chemical damage — dyeing, heat styling, mechanical friction during brushing — causes the cuticle scales to lift and micro-cracks in the hair cortex. The visible effect is dullness, brittleness, split ends.
Hydrolyzed silk addresses this problem in two stages.
First stage: surface level. Silk peptides have a natural affinity for the surface of the hair (hair and silk have similar amino acid composition, both rich in basic amino acids). As a result, silk peptides "stick" to the cuticle and fill in minor unevenness. The effect is immediate: the hair smooths out, catches light more evenly, looks shinier.
Second stage: structural. Peptides smaller than the critical threshold (about 5-10 kDa) actually penetrate through micro-cracks into the hair cortex. There they serve a structural function: partly filling gaps left by lost keratin fibers, and partly delivering amino acids from which the hair can rebuild its own proteins. This is rebuilding "from within" — not a cosmetic illusion of smoothness, but a real change in the structure of the hair shaft.
In the context of the scalp, hydrolyzed silk acts indirectly: peptides have mild moisturizing and antioxidant properties, supporting the health of the skin surface, but their main task is rebuilding hair, not skin.
Why do we use hydrolyzed silk in Trichovita?
There are several reasons why we chose silk over cheaper alternatives like marine collagen, hydrolyzed keratin, or wheat proteins.
Amino acid composition closest to the natural structure of hair. Keratin (the natural hair protein) and fibroin (silk protein) have very similar amino acid profiles — both rich in glycine, alanine, and serine. This means that silk peptides penetrating the hair are structurally "fitting", integrating naturally.
Controllable molecular size in the hydrolysis process. Unlike many other protein hydrolysates, silk allows precise control of molecular weight: the producer can obtain peptides of exactly the size they want. We use a concentration below 10 kDa, which gives an optimal compromise between penetration and effectiveness.
Good solubility in liposomal formulas. Silk is compatible with our delivery technology: peptides can be enclosed in liposomes along with other ingredients, which increases their stability and targeting.
Which Trichovita products contain hydrolyzed silk?
Silk is present in both products — serum and mask, but with different goals. In the serum it works subtly, delivering a daily dose of peptides to the hair as part of a maintenance routine. In the mask it's at a significantly higher concentration and works through 15 minutes of direct exposure, which allows peptides to actually penetrate deep into the hair shaft.
Is hydrolyzed silk right for you?
This ingredient is especially worth considering if:
- Your hair is dyed, bleached, or frequently heat-styled — these processes damage the hair structure, and silk helps rebuild it from within.
- You have thin, delicate hair that breaks easily — silk peptides strengthen the shaft and reduce brittleness.
- You notice that your hair is dull and doesn't catch light — the surface effect of silk restores natural shine.
- Your hair is long, and the ends are significantly older than the scalp — silk works along the entire length, so the ends also get a share of regeneration.
- You've used protein treatments before and seen results — this means your hair responds well to proteins, and silk is their highest-quality version.
Frequently asked questions
How is hydrolyzed silk different from collagen in cosmetics?
Mainly in molecular scale. Collagen in cosmetics usually has molecules too large to penetrate the hair, so it mainly acts on the surface. Hydrolyzed silk is deliberately broken down into small peptides (usually below 10 kDa), which fit into the micro-cracks of the hair cuticle and penetrate inside. This is a fundamental difference in effectiveness.
Is hydrolyzed silk vegan?
No. Silk is an animal-derived product (produced by silkworm caterpillars). There are vegan alternatives (e.g., soy proteins, rice proteins), but they have a different amino acid structure and act weaker. At Trichovita we use real silk because we care about effectiveness, but this is one of the few ingredients that is not vegan.
Won't silk make my hair stiff?
No, if it's delivered in a balanced formula. Too high a concentration of proteins in a cosmetic can cause so-called "protein overload" (stiffness, brittleness), but this is mainly a problem of cheap products with excess cheap collagen. In our formulas, hydrolyzed silk is at a concentration that rebuilds without overloading the hair, and is balanced by moisturizing ingredients and oils.
Is the effect permanent or does it wash out with shampoo?
The effect is semi-permanent. Silk peptides that penetrate inside the hair remain there until the natural regrowth of the hair (which is practically forever for that segment of hair). But silk that stays on the surface of the hair (forming a film) washes out with the next wash. That's why regular use is key — each application adds some permanent rebuilding to the core, and refreshes the protective film on the outside.